Follow My Novice Climbing Journey

I love climbing — it’s an incredibly rewarding challenge. Each route is a puzzle, and I get a mental boost when I complete a hard climb without hangdogging. 

I enjoy how climbing is just as much mental as physical. I rely on body tension and technique, instead of attempting to brutishly muscle my way up the wall. When I can’t figure out a route, I often think about the moves when I’m away from the gym. I’ll wonder, “Should I have flagged there?”

In spite of all my affection for the sport, I’ve never stuck with it. Dear reader, I admit that I’ve never committed to any sort of workout routine long-term. At many points in my life, I’ve struggled with severe depression, a long to-do list, and laziness — often all at the same time. 

But I am capable of change. I’ve set a goal, and I’m committing. Follow and grow with me on my journey to crushing 5.11  in time for spring! To help me along the way, I’ve enlisted the help of coach Favia Dubyk, a pro-climber, American Ninja Warrior, and physician. We’ll learn some great tips together along the way!

Why I Chose My Goal

Despite my more off-than-on relationship with climbing,  I gained enough skills to solidly climb 5.9 in the gym on top rope. I started this climbing journey in November, and now I’m climbing 5.10s — yay me! I think with consistent work and injury prevention, it is a realistic goal to cleanly climb 5.11 in the gym, on top rope, in just a couple of months.. Call it my winter training arc!

And yes, I know a lead climbing goal would be sexier, but I want to hone technique and confident movement first. I also chose a gym climbing goal due to accessibility. Outdoor climbs on natural rock are an hour away from me. And in the winter, it is frequently bitingly cold in the Blue Ridge of Virginia. The gym is climate controlled. 

I received Favia’s marching orders in November, and I’ve learned a lot so far. Here’s some insights from my coach and my own thoughts on what it’s going to take to climb 5.11. Included is my current training plan, which will evolve as I progress.

Start Where You Are

I do lots of yoga for injury prevention, mood regulation and sometimes to warm up before climbing.

Before starting this challenge, it had been months since I regularly pulled plastic. I wasn’t exactly in the best climbing shape. To avoid injury, Favia started me off with two climbing days a week and one strength day.

I will bump it up to three climbing days and strength training as my body adjusts. And if I have to adjust the timeline for my climbing goal, it’s okay. I’m flexible. It’s simply important to give it my best shot. In the past, all-or-nothing thinking contributed to my inconsistency. I hit the ground running too hard and fast, and stalled out.

Build Your Core With Me!

My strength training is focused on my core. A strong core is essential to maintaining balance and control — two skills climbers need to progress. Here’s what my routine looks like now..

One day a week:

• One powerhouse of an ab-strengthener is the hollow body hold. Perform three hollow body holds, held for a minute, or as close to it as you can. Take a minute rest after each. Be sure to keep your back flush to the floor, no arching.

• After your hollow bodies, move on to supermans. Hold three for a minute each. Rest a minute after each.

• I do three sets of weighted Russian twists, for 30 seconds each. I don’t specify weight, as I don’t have dumbbells or a ball. I happen to have a chunk of broken concrete in my yard, so I use it. That kinda feels beasty, though. 

After the first climb of the week:

• Take advantage of the equipment at your climbing gym to get in some more work! I do negatives on the bar, three sets over five seconds each. This will also help with pull-up progression. If I can avoid injury, Favia suggests bumping my negatives up to twice weekly.

• This week, I will practice my form on one of these ring exercises. If I can keep a straight back and tight core, we will add it to the list. 

Mix and match Favia’s go-to core strengtheners for a routine that works for you!

Use Warmups To Practice Technique

Climbing another route.

To tackle 5.11s, I know that dialing in my footwork is just as important as increasing strength. Improving technique has always been easier for me than building strength. To bring out my inner climbing wall ballerina, Dr. Favia prescribed single leg stands while warming up on 5.7s and 5.8s. The free leg is used to shift weight and position while flagging, smearing or doing drop knees.

A good movement rule is to make sure you’re not hunkered over in a “frog” position, Favia says.  “I would not have four limbs on the wall,” she says. “When I watch beginners climb, they’re always in this frog position. They’re trying to always have two legs on a hold at the same time, and I rarely ever do that.”

Take Video Of Your Climbs

This is some of the best advice Favia has given me so far. Video, particularly of you working on a project, is a valuable tool for analyzing your beta, and remembering the moves for you next try. A video of me on a 5.10 helped me figure out how to get out of an overhang before the crux. Now, if I can just figure out those pinches. 

Protect Yourself From Injuries

Injuries have contributed to my periodic hiatus from exercise. I’ll have you know it wasn’t solely due to an abiding love for deep couch sitting. Some years ago, I injured myself during a half marathon due to over training and a hip impingement. 

Since following a protocol from a physical therapist, and practicing yoga, my hip has been injury free. But this experience has taught me to be proactive about injury prevention. Before every climbing session, Favia has advised me to perform I’s, Y’s and T’s with a light resistance band to warm up my shoulders. 

Falling Is A Good Thing

Climb routes you’re guaranteed to fall on. That’s how you get better. It’s not always about climbing the route successfully. It’s important to learn new skills from the challenge. Though I know I can climb just about any 5.9 cleanly, I only climb them at the end of my warm-up. You won’t progress if your training isn’t rigorous.

If you love climbing as much as I do and want to level up, join me on my winter training journey!